Helping fellow metal fabricators is what NOMMA (National Ornamental and Miscellaneous Metals Association) is all about. As a supplier member, Mac Metals benefits from many different educational and networking opportunities, as well as the more obvious ability to market to members nationwide.
One of the most valuable tools that NOMMA members receive is the ability to ask questions and solicit comments through “List-Serve.” NOMMA ListServ connects you to fabricators all over the country. When one member posts, it is bounced to all other subscribers. This is the place where fabricators can learn different joining techniques, locate a part, sell or acquire tools and material and find the best method for collecting overdue debt. Members consistently praise the ListServ because it helps them expedite projects, find work, and SAVE MONEY.
NOMMA ListServ Example
The Listserv conversation below is an example of how members use this resource everyday:
Hello all, I am in desperate need of some advice. I am trying to TIG weld copper and having a difficult time.
Let me preface this by saying I can TIG steel, stainless, brass, bronze, nickel silver, aluminum and cupronickel without any issues.
I am welding 3/16″ copper. I had no problem welding outside corners joints. My dilemma is with a beveled butt weld. As I start weld pool, it pulls the molten copper into a ball and then the arc seems to push it away. I cannot start, nor maintain a pool to feed my filler into. I even burned through in one spot trying to floor the pedal to get a pool going. I did try lowering the gas pressure.
My machine is set for straight polarity, straight argon 15 – 20 psi, and I have tried 3/32″ and 1/8″ seriated tungsten.
I thought I was in the last stages of this project, now I potentially have $1000 of copper scrap on my table and a missed deadline. So if anyone can help me figure this out, please do, I will be eternally grateful.
In my opinion I think you are trying to get too much out of the machine. From my experience DC SP Tig welding of copper and thick aluminum has been done with a 350 amp machine and helium as the gas. The bigger machines will start the puddle and get it rolling.
I have an ESAB 350 sitting on the shelf. I might have to hook it up and give it a try.
The other thing I thought about is how to start the puddle. With the filler metal in the initial puddle with the parent metal, keep the filler metal in the puddle, don’t dap like you would with aluminum. Be prepared to keep the filler metal in the puddle and be ready to keep feeding it to keep it there.
Helium did the trick, until my Dial Arc stopped working. But 3 phase machine with a lower rated TIG torch was able to finish the job. What a difference that helium made. Neat stuff.
“Glad it worked out. While you have the helium try welding DCSP tig for thick aluminum, sharpen the tungsten like you would for steel, then blunt the end handle the filler metal like you did for the copper. This process will eliminate the pre heating needed like with AC welding aluminum.”
Mac Architectural Metals: A NOMMA Member
Mac Architectural Metals, a leading company providing custom architectural brass, bronze, and nickel silver extrusions, is a NOMMA Member. We have seen nothing but benefit from joining NOMMA, and would recommend membership to anyone in this business. The previous example was just another benefit seen by members. Visit the NOMMA website to see more information, and contact Mac Architectural Metals to learn the benefits of working with a NOMMA Member.